Mehndi (Henna)
Mehndi is the application of henna as a temporary form of skin decoration in the Pakistan Subcontinent, as well as by expatriate communities from these areas. Mehndi decorations became fashionable in the West in the late 1990s, where they are sometimes called henna tattoos. Henna is typically applied during special occasions like weddings and festivals like Eid, Diwali, Bhaidooj and Teej. It is usually drawn on the palms and feet, where the color will be darkest because the skin contains higher levels of keratin which binds temporarily to lawsone, the colorant of Mehndi. Mehndi was originally used as a form of decoration mainly for brides.
In the modern age usually people buy readymade Mehndi cones, which are ready to use and make painting easy. But in rural areas in India women grind fresh henna leaves on sil (grinding stone) with added oil, which though not as refined as professionally prepared henna cones, brings much darker colors.
The term henna tattoo is inaccurate, because tattoos are defined as permanent surgical insertion of pigments underneath the skin, as opposed to pigments resting on the surface as is the case with mehndi.
Likely due to the desire for a "tattoo-black" appearance, many people have started adding the synthetic dye p-Phenylenediamine (PPD) to henna to give it a black colour. PPD is extremely harmful to the skin and can cause severe allergic reactions resulting in permanent injury or death. Alata (Mahur) is a flower-based dye used to paint the feet of the brides in some regions of India. It is still used in Bengal.
Popular brands of Mehndi include Karachi, Pakeezah, Golden, Dulhan, Zoom Golden, Baybe, and Kewlarinova.
Tradition
Mehndi decoration of palms and feet of a bride
There is evidence that Mehndi as a ceremonial art form originated in ancient Subcontinent. Intricate patterns of Mehndi are typically applied to brides before wedding ceremonies. The bridegroom is also painted in some parts of Pakistan, India, Nepal, Bangladesh and Sudan. Apart from marriage, it is also broadly used by unmarried women too .
The use of Mehndi and henna by Prophet Muhammad ensured its place in history and its popularity and acceptance among Muslims. In Arabic speaking countries such as Morocco, and some other countries in Central Asia, it is applied on any special occasion. It is done during the seventh month of pregnancy, after having the baby, weddings, engagements, family get-togethers, diwali, as well as on other occasions.
The fashion of "Bridal Mehndi" in Pakistan, Northern Libya and in North Indian diasporas is currently growing in complexity and elaboration, with new innovations in glitter, gilding, and fine-line work. Recent technological innovations in grinding, sifting, temperature control, and packaging Mehndi, as well as government encouragement for henna cultivation, have improved dye content and artistic potential for Mehndi.
Traditions of Mehndi as body art.
The different words for Mehndi (Henna) in ancient languages imply that it had more than one point of discovery and origin, as well as different pathways of daily and ceremonial use.
Mehndi (Henna) has been used to adorn young women's bodies as part of social and holiday celebrations since the late Bronze Age in the eastern Mediterranean. The earliest text mentioning henna in the context of marriage and fertility celebrations comes from the Ugaritic legend of Baal and Anath, which has references to women marking themselves with Mehndi (Henna) in preparation to meet their husbands, and Anath adorning herself with Mehndi (Henna) to celebrate a victory over the enemies of Baal. Wall paintings excavated at Akrotiri (dating prior to the eruption of Thera in 1680 BCE) show women with markings consistent with Mehndi (Henna) on their nails, palms and soles, in a tableau consistent with the Mehndi (Henna) bridal description from Ugarit. Many statuettes of young women dating between 1500 and 500 BCE along the Mediterranean coastline have raised hands with markings consistent with Mehndi (Henna).This early connection between young, fertile women and Mehndi (Henna) seems to be the origin of the Night of the Henna, which is now celebrated worldwide.
The Night of the Mehndi (Henna) was celebrated by most groups in the areas where Mehndi (Henna) grew naturally: Muslims, Hindus, Jews, Christians and Zoroastrians, among others, all celebrated marriages by adorning the bride, and often the groom, with Mehndi (Henna).
Process
Application of the Mehndi paste.
Mehndi paste is usually applied on the skin using a plastic cone or a paint brush, but sometimes a small metal-tipped jacquard bottle used for silk painting (a jac bottle) is employed. The painted area is then wrapped with tissue, plastic, or medical tape to lock in body heat, creating a more intense colour on the skin. The wrap is worn three to six hours, or sometimes overnight and then removed. When first removed, the Mehndi design is pale to dark orange in colour and gradually darkens through oxidation, over the course of 24 to 72 hours. The final colour is reddish brown and can last anywhere from one to three weeks depending on the quality and type of Mehndi paste applied, as well as where it was applied on the body (thicker skin stains darker and longer than thin skin).
